Jacquemus’ latest fall/winter 2022 “LE PAPIER” collection is pure natural poetry

By crossing the artistic direction of the Giacometti brothers with the ingenious imagination of Jacquemus, the designer brilliantly embraces a trompe l’oeil simplicity in his latest collection.

By crossing the artistic direction of the Giacometti brothers with the ingenious imagination of Jacquemus, the designer brilliantly embraces a trompe l’oeil simplicity in his latest collection.

Presented in the implausibly elegant “salin” of Camargue in the south of France, the eponymous brand Jacquemus has unveiled its latest Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, “Le Papier”. The collection celebrates the shared affinity that encapsulates the vast salt marshes of Girauld in France, otherwise otherworldly, chosen with the desire to highlight places with extraordinary simplicity, minimal decor whose natural poetry is briefly interrupted by the creative narrative of Jacquemus.

With an emphasis on artisanal exploration of natural materials, the collection showcased Jacquemus’ ingenious imagination in overall harmony. As this was Simon’s first show since his FW21 Collection in Hawaii, he chose to enter into a dialogue with the art of the Giacometti brothers. True flexible sculptures, the plaster sculptures of Diego and Albert Giacometti served as an artistic reference for the collection. Beautifully encapsulating feelings of intimacy, beauty and subtlety in clothing.

The Jacquemus x Nike collaboration was also presented on this occasion.

Diego Giacometti’s lamps inspire twisted linen suspenders, while plaster or modeling clay jewelry pays homage to Alberto Giacometti’s quest for austerity. Clothing is deconstructed to better retain the lines of the pattern pieces. Others are upholstered to emphasize the comfortable and airy volumes.

Given as creative narratives, the linen and other fabrics in the collection are a starting point for building an artisan initiative. Applauding as it should a game of materials, this introduction then shows raw renderings, close to seamstress muslins, which make the details more visible. The raw edges at the ends of linen garments are like finished sketches, and you also see clean, stitched patterns that look like giant fragments. With accents of craftsmanship, these couture details punctuate the collection and reveal silhouettes of deceptive simplicity.

The quilted linen violates the codes of the workwear uniform, while the ceremonial garment oscillates between revealed details and unexpected coverings. These couture silhouettes were decorated with bows, bands, dramatic trains and visible petticoats, celebrating the wear for special occasions. This season, the pieces of lingerie that Jacquemus incorporates into each of its collections illustrate the fluid contours between indoor and outdoor living spaces so typical of Provence.

Shown in sensible and minimal silhouettes for a woman’s wardrobe accompanied by epic pieces such as the Humara sneaker. The natural colors sublimate the subtle details of the lingerie and the sensual and technical cuts.

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